Keychron has a keyboard with the number pad on the left hand side rather than the right. I like this idea. The problem I have with the way most people set up their keyboards and mice is to start with your keyboard, have the number pad on the right, and then also have their mouse on the right. This means you either have to reach far to the right to operate the mouse, or you have to lean to the left to center the home row and type. For years, my solution to this has been to have the mouse on the left, leaving home row in the center where it belongs. Of course, one has to consider the overall application of the space when discussing ergonomics. Put simply, if you spend more time writing than using the mouse, then he occasional reach over to the right isn't too taxing. If you spend more time using your mouse than writing, leaning over to type up the occasional piece of text isn't that big of a deal. Moreover, if you spend more time using the mouse than your keyboard, splurging on a fully mechanical keyboard is more than a little excessive. I'm using a mechanical keyboard right now, a Logitech G413 Carbon. It's probably the cheapest mechanical keyboard you can get that's really worth the price. I don't remember what I paid, but it was not full price, and it frequently goes on sale. At work, I have an old Corsair keyboard that used to belong to Tabi before we got her another mechanical keyboard. The Corsair is actually a membrane keyboard, the more common type of keyboard out in the wild. As far as whether I use my keyboard or mouse more, I'd have to say it's a fairly even mix, maybe leaning toward using the mouse more. When I have to use my keyboard, apart from brief e-mails and Teams messages, it's for the shortcuts in Sketchup. That hardly warrants using the satisfyingly tactile qualities of a mechanical keyboard. I've been shopping around for a keyboard to use at work instead of the Corsair, though it's also not a mechanical keyboard. My mouse is a Razer Naga (lefty version, which was not one, but two separate hassles to get ahold of, but that's another story I won't bother with now). It has an onboard memory to hold all of the keyboard shortcuts I've programmed into its thumb pad. Changing those macros requires a software download, Razer Synapse. Any software we want on our machines has to be installed under our IT department's supervision for security reasons. This usually isn't any big deal; it's merely tedious. I don't have the software for the Corsair installed, so if I want to change the keyboard's lights to match my mouse's red, I've got to go through IT. Meanwhile, if I get a Razer keyboard, I've already got the software installed, and therefore can have a matching keyboard and mouse. Specifically, I'm looking at their Ornata V3 X, easily their cheapest keyboard. I haven't decided yet because I've essentially got a perfectly good keyboard right now and matching the lighting and branding is mere vanity. As I said last time, there's a difference between a purchase and an investment as much as there's a difference between a want and a need. There's something called the Boots Theory of Socioeconomic Unfairness. Named for a passage from a Terry Pratchett novel, the long and short of the story is that more expensive items lasted longer while cheaper ones wore out sooner and therefore the more frugally-minded wound up spending more money due to replacements following general wear and tear. You wouldn't expect wear and tear to apply to a desktop and monitor, but as I say this (as off and on while writing this), my monitor will cut out for a few seconds. Its LED is still blue, which means the issue may rest with my Mac mini. That's troublesome as I don't know how to use any of the USB-C outputs for a display. It may simply need a cable and the Mac will simply figure out the rest on its own. I know it's not the sleep mode because it happens while I type and move my mouse around. My TV started doing the same thing some months ago. I worked out it's the TV and not the PS4 because it does it with the PS3 as well. It could well be a software problem because whenever it comes back on, the clock will show one time, then skip ahead about an hour and a few minutes. I've gone through the update process and it says it's the most current version of the firmware. Then again, a bad component can likely cause a software malfunction, maybe a small battery somewhere that keeps the clock synched when it's not connected to the wi-fi. It's the intermittent aspect that's the most irritating. If it would simply cut out and stay cut out, that would be one thing, but for it to work properly 90% of the time makes it much harder to justify an upgrade. It's an annoyance, not a deal breaker. I also don't like the idea of passing the TV on to someone else through a thrift store, knowing full well they may be every bit as annoyed at the blackout as I am. Yes, buyer beware, but I'd still feel guilty about passing off my problem.
Goodnight, and good luck.
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